Traveling While Black: Lopez Island
Washington State is full of surprises, and the San Juan Islands are at the top of that list. You've probably heard of San Juan and Orcas Islands, but what about Lopez Island? On our latest stop in the San Juan Islands Series, we set our sights on Lopez Island, the most laid-back of the archipelago's Big 3.
We grabbed our ferry reservation early, packed up our gear, and made our way to the island to see how much magic we could find on Lopez Island.
Here's everything you need to know about visiting Lopez Island, and what makes it such a powerful destination, especially for Black travelers.
About Lopez Island
Lopez Island is the southernmost of the San Juan Islands’ Big 3 and the flattest, making it the most bike-friendly. Though smaller than San Juan and Orcas, it has over 63 miles of shoreline, rich farmland, and a slow pace that feels like an intentional lifestyle choice.
You'll notice it right away: fewer hills, more open fields, and a calmness that creeps in and stays with you.
Getting There: Our Drive Grade
To reach any of the San Juan Islands, your main route is via the Anacortes Ferry, which is about a 90-minute drive from Seattle. Trust us when we say this: book your ferry slot early. Reservations open up to two months ahead of sailing seasons and fill up fast, especially in the spring and summer.
Here’s what to remember:
Be at the terminal 30 minutes before your sailing time.
You aren’t charged for your ferry until check-in, but you’ll hold your reservation with a card.
For Lopez specifically, the ride is shorter—only 40 minutes from Anacortes—and you don’t need to reserve a return ferry, which is a big perk.
Where We Stayed
We checked into Lopez Farm Cottages & Tent Camping, and y’all, this spot delivered. Whether you’re into full-on camping or prefer glamping, this place has options: traditional sites, wall tents, and private cottages.
We went with the cottage. Hot tub? ✅ Fireplace? ✅ King-sized bed? Say less.
Even better, the story behind the resort feels like part of the island's magic. The original owner passed it on to a couple who felt called to the property, and they’ve been elevating the experience ever since. You’ll feel it in the details and maybe even spot a few cool cats roaming around.
Getting Around Lopez
Thanks to the flat terrain, biking is the way to go on Lopez. We rented e-bikes from Village Cycles, a locally owned shop that’s all about connecting visitors to the island’s natural beauty. Cruising around the island on those bikes were amazing!
The Food Scene
Lopez Island has a sleeper food scene, we loved EVERY meal we had on the island!
From Ursa Minor, run by a James Beard–nominated chef, to the casual and cozy Blue Heron Bistro, where the owners have food truck trophies under their belt, we were blown away. And don’t get us started on the wine…. word on the street is a world-class sommelier said the island’s selection rivals Napa.
Nature Spots We Loved
Spencer Spit State Park
A 138-acre marine and camping park with scenic hiking trails and sweeping views. (And yes, we explain what a land spit is in our episode!)Shark Reef Sanctuary
Just a 10-minute walk from the parking lot, this trail leads to dramatic water views and plenty of wildlife. Seals, otters, sea lions, take your pick.
TWB Rating Criteria: How We Scored ALL the San Juan Islands!
We rated our experience in the San Juan Islands (including Lopez) using the TWB Scale, which measures three key categories: Drive Grade, Level of Fun, and Comfortability for Black People.
Drive Grade: Seattle -> Anacortes Ferry -> San Juan Islands
Quality of views: 2/2 - The journey from Seattle to Anacortes and across the water offers incredible scenery.
Roadside amenities: 2/2 - There are plenty of convenient stops for food, restrooms, and gas along the way to the ferry terminal.
Roadside attractions: 2/2 - The ferry ride itself feels like an attraction, and there is an ability to hop between islands adds more to explore.
Parking: 2/2 - We had no parking issues on any of the islands. Everything was easy to navigate and close to main attractions.
Route difficulty: 1/2 - Planning ahead is key. Ferry reservations fill up fast, and timing matters. The process isn't hard, but it does take coordination.
Total Drive Grade Score: 9/10
Level of Fun
Quality of activities: 2/2 - Between biking, state parks, beaches, and wine tasting, there’s no shortage of memorable things to do on the San Juan Islands.
Demographic applicability: 2/2 - Whether you're a solo traveler, a family, or a couple looking to unplug, there’s something for everyone.
Quality of restaurants: 2/2 - The food was exceptional across the board. From award-winning chefs to locally loved spots, every meal was a hit.
Special events: 2/2 - Lopez Island hosts its own events, like the Tour de Lopez, and the broader islands offer festivals and cultural gatherings year-round.
Affordability: 1/2 - While the San Juan Islands tend to be more expensive than the mainland, there are still some affordable lodging and dining options available.
Total Level of Fun Score: 9/10
Comfortability for Black People
Personal feelings of comfort: 2/2 - From the moment we arrived on all of the San Juan Islands, we felt welcome and at ease.
Black people seen: 2/2 - We were pleasantly surprised to see other Black travelers, considering the area's small Black population, and even learned the Mayor of Friday Harbor is Black.
Artifacts of inclusion: 2/2 - Black Lives Matter signs, Pride flags, and diverse representation among business owners were all visible across the islands.
Access to cultural resource groups: 2/2 - San Juan County has taken steps to invest in inclusion and accessibility by funding groups and programs that focus on cultural equity.
Diversity in destination marketing: 2/2 - From tourism brochures to visitor center displays, we saw ourselves reflected. The effort to be inclusive isn’t just performative, it shows up on the ground too.
Total Comfortability For Black People Score: 10/10
Lopez Island is magic!
We felt a specific kind of magic on Lopez Island, an internal feeling of peace, belonging, and calm. It’s the kind of place that draws you in and makes you never want to leave.
That said, we won’t say Lopez is more magical than San Juan or Orcas. What we will say is that the magic of the San Juan Islands shows up differently on each island:
Friday Harbor brings you to the magic
Orcas Island brings the magic to you
Lopez Island draws you into the magic
Each has its own rhythm. Each is worth a visit. And each Is worth taking care of. If you do visit, treat each island with care!
Watch the Full Episode:
Want to see our full experience, including the bike rides, the meals, and that Lopez Island magic? Watch our episode on YouTube to catch it all.
